Monday, January 24, 2011

Cave Hopping

The day we found out we were supposed to cover Mahakali Caves in Andheri (East) for the event, we thought to ourselves: WHY would anyone want to ever visit Andheri of all places for a couple of moments of peace? And yes, we were wrong. Very wrong.

Mahakali Caves, a group of 19 rock-cut monuments, is actually a two thousand year old Buddhist monastery. Sounds interesting, right? A Buddhist monastery in the middle of Mumbai?! Exactly our point.

Upon nearing the place, we were sort of disappointed by the dirt and filth that welcomed us at the entrance. But wait for it … it got cleaner upon entering the actual location. Unlike usual assumption, these caves are anything but smelly, packed with congested air and rats squandering around. No! For all the time that we spent there, not one animal, or wild dog or creepy crawly was spotted.





Apart from being extremely clean, the caves seemed superbly strong. Not one single wobbly spot, we tell you! And whilst discovering the place from within, we came across an adorable looking well complete with the facility to draw out water!






Upon moving further around, we came across vast empty clean room like structures that were used as dinning halls or for meditation purposes in olden times by monks, we were told. There are rooms within these caves that were used as kitchens and for other such activities by monks.





The largest cave is the 9th cave which locals believe was a granary - due to the positioning of a semicircular shrine.






It is most likely the oldest and certainly the most interesting one among all caves. The walls are adorned by remnants of later Buddhist sculptures, possibly from 6th century AD, including a seated Buddha teaching two attendants. Above him is a damaged row of six smaller Buddhas.



What amused us, however, is the fact that a whole lot of people we spoke to, seemed to be under the assumption that the ‘semicircular shrine’ is a Shivling! We guess the shock of having a Buddhist monastery in the middle of Mumbai leads us to believe that it’s not a Buddhist shrine, but a shelter to a Hindu God.


While we were initially wary of treading deeper into those caves all by ourselves, we soon found company! The local kids, who consider the place to be their ‘hangout’, were highly amused on seeing us photographing the place. A couple of questions broke the ice and we found ourselves being shown around by these tiny tots on naked feet.

Contrary to popular belief, these caves aren’t home to any anti social elements who walk up to you and proposition you. Trust us. Being an all-girls team, we were not leached upon on harassed by anyone. The security guard stationed at the entrance was kind enough to take rounds at regular intervals while we were around. And since the construction of a so-called ‘park’ is on a couple of meters away from the caves, the place is never completely uninhabited.


After having walked in and out of these caves enough number of times, we climbed atop them and sat back for a while…soaking in the pleasantly gleaming sun…looking as human civilization buzzed kilometers away. And then it was time to pack up and leave!


How to get there:

  • Board a train to Andheri. Bus number 333 from Andheri station will directly drop you off at the entrance of Mahakali Caves. The frequency of the bus is decent.

  • Board a train to Jogeshwari. From outside the station, from east, hire an auto rickshaw. A ride of about 20 minutes, mostly uphill, will cost you Rs 40 approximately and you’ll find yourself at the caves.

Tips:

  • Wear decent clothes.
  • Carry your own bottle of water.
  • Photography is allowed. Do not cause much commotion while inside the caves.

PS: If you are broke and are worrying yourself to death, worry not! The entry to the caves is absolutely FREE! FREE! FREE!

Much love, brownies and lemonade from The CaveWomen.